Writer James D. Malcolmson

Art is a slippery term when applied to anything, especially a commercial product like wristwatches. Yet for many watch aficionados, the belief that, at a certain level, watchmaking qualifies as art is the root of their interest in the field.

Unfortunately, during the years following the pandemic, this principle was all but forgotten as large numbers of people swarmed into watch buying, attracted by the through-the-roof valuations on a number of specific models and brands. Now that prices have eased — much to the consternation of the speculators — many longtime collectors may be gratified that their own brand of watch appreciation is coming back into style.

In watchmaking, there are many ingredients to creating art: mechanical ingenuity, physical design and the application of decorative arts to the surfaces. Every brand has its own, widely varying approach to the mixture of these elements, and this diversity adds a great deal of richness to the pastime.

To more fully illustrate this, we have curated three high-end pieces from starkly different brands. None of these companies are the widely distributed names with which you may be familiar. Instead, they are small, independent companies for whom creativity rather than marketing is necessary for survival.

Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Manufacture Edition Green
One of the most important hallmarks of contemporary watchmaking is the ability not just to innovate in mechanical movements, but to fully display them for all to see. This is a particular specialty of Armin Strom, a company from the German-speaking region of Switzerland.

On display in this “open works” timepiece is a highly unusual movement: two side-by-side regulating organs are synchronized through their own natural vibrations for improved accuracy. Just a handful of watches since the 18th century have employed this phenomenon. The contrasting hand-finishing techniques on the movement as well as twin seconds indicators pull you in and turn the resonance phenomenon into an engrossing experience.

Bovet Virtuoso IX
A unique mix of decorative arts has been the signature of Bovet since its earliest days making pocket watches in the early 19th century. Today, many of the brand’s models carry this legacy forward with a unique format that converts from a wristwatch to a desk clock to a pocket watch.

Virtuouso IX is anything but old-fashioned. It contains a tourbillon (a complex, accuracy-improving construction) and a second time zone with city indicator, making it a perfect companion for a contemporary traveler. The front dial owes its lustrous, deep blue color to flinqué enamel, which is an application of colored glass over mechanical engraving. It is the same technique made famous in the fabled Easter eggs of Peter-Carl Fabergé, but a nearly lost art in today’s world.

The reverse side features blue-hued Bris de Verre engraving, and you can wear either side up thanks to the convertible system and time-display hands on either side.

Corum Concept Watch
Most people regard sapphire crystal as a mere protective layer for a watch’s dial. Though not an old company by Swiss standards, Corum, a boundary-pushing company since its founding in the 1950s, was the first to use sapphire creatively when it released Golden Bridge in 1980, with a thin strip of a movement suspended — seemingly floating — between two sapphire crystals.

Corum’s latest Concept Watch is another interpretation of this idea. The movement itself is partially composed of sapphire. The working components, including tourbillon, are crafted in metal, but designed for maximum visibility. The plates on which they are mounted are sapphire, a highly demanding construction due to the brittleness of the material. The result is a captivating view of the timepiece mechanism as architecture, which is a visual art unto itself.

Luxury Showcase
I am beyond thrilled to be visiting Grace Renee Gallery in Carefree on Thursday, Jan. 25, to present a special showcase of luxury timepieces — including exquisite examples from each of these three exceptional brands.

I invite you to join me on an exclusive tour of these horological marvels as I share with you their unique stories of precision, artistry and innovation as well as provide insights into the art of watchmaking, the history of these renowned brands and the nuanced elements that make each timepiece a coveted masterpiece.

Pre-owned Luxury Watches
Jan. 25 // 4–7 p.m. // Daytime appointments available // Grace Renee Gallery // Historic Spanish Village // 7212 E. Ho Hum Road, #7, Carefree // Free // 480-575-8080 // gracereneegallery.com