The Microscopic Magic of Alex Sepkus Jewelry

Writer Joseph J. Airdo

In the world of fine jewelry, where sparkle and shine often reign supreme, Alex Sepkus pieces stand apart. They whisper rather than shout, inviting closer inspection to reveal a universe of intricate details invisible to the naked eye. Each piece is a miniature marvel, a testament to unparalleled craftsmanship and artistic vision.

“Alex viewed these pieces as miniature sculptures,” says Jeffrey Feero, managing partner of Alex Sepkus and longtime friend of the late designer. “He despised shiny, polished metal because he found it quite boring — it just reflects a lot of light without much depth.”

Instead, Sepkus carefully crafted his carvings and added a patina to create contrast, resulting in what Feero describes as “more like a sculpted painting.” This approach allows viewers to see into the piece and appreciate the intricate details, creating a super three-dimensional effect that sets Sepkus’ work apart from traditional, highly polished jewelry.

The Artist Behind the Masterpieces

Alex Sepkus (1959-2021): The visionary jewelry designer whose microscopic artistry and unique aesthetic revolutionized the world of fine jewelry. His legacy lives on through his intricate, one-of-a-kind pieces that continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Born in Lithuania, Sepkus’ journey to becoming a renowned jewelry designer was shaped by his unique background.

“Alex’s upbringing in the Soviet system was the crucible that shaped who he became,” Feero explains. “His aunts, who lost their husbands in the war, doted on him. As a result, he spoke seven languages and had an intense knowledge of art history from his six-year degree.”

Sepkus initially studied industrial design with the intention of following his father’s footsteps into architecture. However, he found architecture too limiting for his design passion and transitioned to fine jewelry, focusing on basic forms, structures and textures.

“His father refined Alex’s drafting abilities,” Feero continues. “This fine education, combined with the scarcity of materials, made Alex focus on intricate details and tiny pieces. There wasn’t much gold or silver available, so he’d struggle to make small pieces, inlaying little bits of gold and stone, and carving tiny elements.”

This early experience laid the foundation for Sepkus’ unique style, characterized by microscopic details and unparalleled craftsmanship. Today, Alex Sepkus jewelry continues its late founder’s obsessive approach, boasting an irresistible playfulness and quirkiness unrivaled in the world of goldsmiths.

A Unique Approach to Craftsmanship

Jeffrey Feero, managing partner of Alex Sepkus and longtime friend of the late designer. Feero continues to uphold Sepkus’ legacy, ensuring that each piece maintains the exquisite craftsmanship and artistic vision that define the brand.

The manufacturing process behind Alex Sepkus jewelry is as unique as the designs themselves.

“What sets us apart from other jewelry makers is our unique process,” Feero explains. “While we start with handmade models and take molds like others, it’s what happens after casting that makes the difference.”

Every casting undergoes an intensive engraving and hammering process, taking two to three times longer than most other jewelers’ methods. This level of detail truly separates Sepkus’ work from the crowd. The pieces aren’t bright and shiny like typical jewelry. Instead, they’re engraved first, then given a special texture afterward, creating a depth and richness unmatched in the industry.

The company employs specialized tools and techniques exclusive to its workshop.

“We have specialized hammers that are electric and electronic, which aren’t made anywhere else except in our shop,” Feero reveals. “We make them ourselves because they require a different kind of force impact, and the tips are unique. It takes months to make just one new hammer.”

This combination of specialized tools and techniques, along with the skill of their craftsmen, is what sets Alex Sepkus jewelry apart and makes it impossible to replicate. The workshop, affectionately dubbed “the U.N.” due to its diverse staff from around the globe, is home to artisans who have been with the company for decades, each bringing unique skills to the intricate process.

“Our workshop is truly unique,” Feero proudly states. “While we have a couple of people who’ve been with us for just one or two years, everyone else has been here for 20 to 33 years. We cherish our employees because if we lose them, it’s a nightmare – they have such specialized skills.”

Quality control is paramount in the creation of Alex Sepkus pieces.

“Everything is made under a microscope,” Feero says. “The woman who does the final finishing has the last say on whether a piece goes out the door or not. She examines each item with a very powerful microscope and doesn’t let anything slip by.”

This meticulous attention to detail extends to the durability of the jewelry. The hammering process compresses the surface molecules of each piece, making it tougher and more resistant to wear.

“As a result, the wear is much less, and the piece is more durable overall,” Feero explains.

Stories Woven in Gold and Gems

Beyond the technical mastery, what truly sets Alex Sepkus jewelry apart is the storytelling embedded in each piece. Many designs are autobiographical, inspired by Sepkus’ personal experiences and observations. The Orchard collection, for instance, was inspired by the miniature dwarf pear and apple trees Sepkus planted on his property.

“He’d hide little things in his pieces,” Feero recalls. “For instance, he discovered pinball machines with flippers. In one of his most successful rings and pendants, he hid flippers — you know, the things that actually hit the ball as it comes down — in the carving.”

Another fascinating example is the Little Windows collection.

“It all started when I took Alex out on my fishing boat,” Feero recounts. “We were cruising around Manhattan at dusk, and the western sun was shining through a skyscraper near the U.N., illuminating the windows orange. Alex was completely obsessed with the sight. After that experience, the Windows collection appeared, designed to allow negative space and play with light, just like those glowing skyscraper windows.”

These hidden elements and inspirations add depth and meaning to the pieces, contributing to their value and collectability.

“Conveying the story to the client is really important,” Feero emphasizes. “This isn’t your regular process or your mother or grandmother’s jewelry. This is what we call a jeweler’s jewelry.”

Interestingly, Alex had a unique way of discussing his own creations.

“Alex had a peculiar way of talking about his work,” Feero remembers. “He would always speak in the second or third person. He’d say, ‘We were thinking…’ and I’d say, ‘Alex, you’re the one that made it.’ He’d just respond, ‘Well, we were thinking…’ He could hardly talk about his own work. He could discuss any other jeweler’s work, but when it came to his own, he’d say, ‘I already spoke. I made it. Just look at it. That tells you all you need to know.’”

The Gallery Experience

Shelly Spence, owner of Grace Renee Gallery in Carefree, echoes the importance of these narratives.

“At Grace Renee Gallery, we believe that every piece of Alex Sepkus jewelry tells a unique story,” she says. “When we showcase these exquisite creations to our clients, we’re not just presenting jewelry — we’re unveiling miniature works of art, each with its own narrative and symbolism.”

Spence and her team encourage clients to explore the intricate details of each piece under magnification, revealing the astounding craftsmanship that sets Alex Sepkus apart.

“As they discover hidden elements and marvel at the precision of the work, we share the inspiration behind the designs, from Alex’s personal experiences to his artistic vision,” Spence explains.

What resonates particularly well with the Carefree clientele is how these pieces, despite their exceptional quality and artistic value, are designed for everyday wear.

“They perfectly complement the sophisticated yet relaxed lifestyle of our community,” Spence notes. “When a client chooses an Alex Sepkus piece, they’re not just acquiring jewelry — they’re becoming part of a legacy of unparalleled craftsmanship and artistic expression.”

The clientele drawn to Alex Sepkus jewelry is as unique as the pieces themselves.

“Our customers share an aesthetic for food, architecture and subtlety, not flashiness,” Feero explains. “We do really well in understated places like Seattle, Greenwich, Connecticut and San Francisco. Not so much in Boca Raton or Dallas. It’s not bright and shiny and flashy. The Kardashians aren’t our customers. Catherine Zeta-Jones is our customer. So are people like Glenn Close.”

A Rare Opportunity

This October, residents of Carefree and surrounding areas will have a unique opportunity to experience the world of Alex Sepkus firsthand. Grace Renee Gallery will host a special showcase featuring an extensive collection of Alex Sepkus jewelry, including 300 additional pieces brought in for the event.

“If you’re a collector of Alex’s work, that’s when you want to come to the gallery,” Feero advises. “There’s going to be a lot of variety, especially in color mixes within the same style. So you’ll have a really nice selection to choose from. It’s a great opportunity to see the breadth of Alex’s designs all in one place.”

Both Feero and his colleague Richard will be present at the event, ready to share stories and pour wine.

“We really want to engage with the customers and share the stories behind the pieces,” Feero says.

The choice of Grace Renee Gallery for this showcase is no coincidence.

“We have 135 accounts worldwide, and Grace Renee is our favorite because they really know their stuff,” Feero enthuses. “Whether it’s our pieces, other designers’ work, or especially the gemstones, they’re experts. They’ve got Natasha, who’s a world-class gemstone expert. There are probably only four people like her in the entire country.”

Natasha Lazorova, the gallery’s head gemstone expert and client adviser, brings an unparalleled level of expertise to Grace Renee. Her deep knowledge of precious stones perfectly complements the intricate artistry of Alex Sepkus pieces.

“Each Alex Sepkus creation is a unique canvas for showcasing exceptional gemstones,” Lazorova explains. “When I work with clients, I help them understand not just the technical aspects of the gems, but how they interact with Sepkus’ designs to create a truly one-of-a-kind piece. It’s about finding that perfect harmony between the stone’s natural beauty and Alex’s artistic vision.”

As Alex Sepkus once said, “I want to be judged 200 years after I’m dead. If my stuff still holds up then, that’s more important than winning an award right now.” With their timeless design, unparalleled craftsmanship and rich narratives, Alex Sepkus pieces seem poised to stand the test of time, continuing to captivate and inspire for generations to come.

For those seeking to own a piece of this legacy, the upcoming showcase at Grace Renee Gallery offers a rare opportunity. As Spence puts it, “When you choose an Alex Sepkus piece, you’re not just buying jewelry – you’re investing in a work of art with a story all its own.”


Microscopic Marvels: Alex Sepkus Jewelry Showcase

Oct. 10 and 11 // 10 a.m.–5 p.m. // Grace Renee Gallery // Historic Spanish Village // North Hum Road // 7212 E. Ho Road, Carefree // Free // 480-575-8080 // gracereneegallery.com